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Then came the casinos and Muscle MICE (a silly acronym for meetings, incentives, conferences and exhibitions).
Suddenly, the limelight shifted from this UNESCO World Heritage Site to spinning roulette wheels, Italian gondolas and hallucinogenic neon, while one survivor, Lord Stow's Bakery (that made Macau famous for its egg tarts), determinedly hung on, even expanding from its Coloane base to The Venetian hotel and elsewhere. The showy extravagance of this flamboyant Special Administrative Region (SAR) didn’t stop there.
Again, expect to pay more for a ticket on weekends.
First Ferry (com.hk) operates a service between Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong and Macau.
Crowds dodged firecrackers at the A-Ma Temple before heading off to feast on Macanese salted cod balls in cosy European-style taverns.
Erstwhile local budget airline Viva Macau, alas, did not survive the initial stampede and folded its wings after a short stint in the low cost skies.The rest are of Portuguese or other European descent, or from elsewhere in Asia.▲ top Zooming into Macau for a weekend from Hong Kong, chances are you’ll arrive by high-speed Turbojet ferry (tel:  2859-3333; about an hour’s journey; sailings throughout the day and night).Two bridges connect the Macau Peninsula with Taipa.Of the around 555,000 inhabitants, about 95 percent are ethnically Chinese.
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After a stubborn start, this begun to change as Macau is forced to consider new markets, and family travel becomes an important target.